Gatsby’s Gaze Ring

The golden ratio is the proportion the eye trusts without being told to — the relationship between a part and a whole that recurs through classical architecture, Renaissance painting and the growth of a nautilus shell. Eve’s Golden Ratio line takes that as its governing idea, and this ring is built to it: the sapphire at the centre, the black field around it and the outer rim each sit in a proportion the eye reads as settled before the mind has worked out why.

The ring works outward in three bands. An oval blue sapphire of 1.38 carats claw-set at the heart, ringed first by pavé diamonds, then by a broad field of black onyx, then by a second row of diamonds along the outer edge.

The outline gives the ring its character. It comes to a point at either end and scallops down both sides, so it reads lengthwise along the finger rather than sitting on it as a circle. All three bands follow that same profile, which means every curve in the piece is its own length.

The onyx is cut to an irregular profile — an inlay shaped to the ring, rather than a stone the ring was built around. Cutting a closed band of it to that outline means matching the inner curve to the diamond row within and the outer curve to the row beyond, with no tolerance at either edge. Onyx gives an absolute black that neither metal nor any other gem quite achieves, and against it the diamonds have the field entirely to themselves.

Set in 18-karat yellow gold, with milgrain worked along both diamond rows.

Please enquire for certification and viewing.