Oceanic Swirl Bracelet

Water never repeats itself, and neither does this bracelet. The sapphire line runs straight along the wrist, gathers into a scroll where a wave turns over on itself, then releases and runs on. Each section differs from the one before it.

The blue is unbroken. Every sapphire is cut to grip its neighbours from beneath and held on a channelled framework, stone meeting stone across the whole surface. Invisible setting is among the most demanding work in the trade in a straight line, where the stones repeat and can be cut to one template. In a scroll, each stone in the arc takes its own shape, individually cut and individually fitted, and a single failure sends the entire run back to the bench.

Diamond pavé runs either side of the blue and inside each scroll, so the colour is always edged in light — the break of the wave rather than the body of it.

On the wrist it lies flat and moves as one. Each link is set individually and hinged to the next; the clasp sits concealed within the line. The underside is pierced and finished, the pattern carried all the way round.

Art Deco supplies the discipline: the scroll worked as a geometric device rather than a floral one, calibrated colour held against white pavé.

This piece has been sold to a private collector.