Orbital Ring

Here the whole head turns. Press a thumb against the row of stones standing perpendicular at the rim, and the entire face revolves — centre stone, mother of pearl and diamonds together — carried round by the band you push against.

That perpendicular row is the mechanism as well as the ornament. It gives the thumb something to catch, so the ring turns easily and without looking. It sits directly under the hand that wears it, and most people find themselves turning it during a telephone call or a meeting rather than as any deliberate act.

The row changes with the stone. Malachite and garnet are cabochon, set face up so the dome stands outward and the light rolls slowly across it as the head goes round. Blue topaz and amethyst are faceted, set face down, so the pavilion faces the world and the light comes back in points. One turns quietly, the other catches all the way round.

Spinner rings are almost always plain: a simple band inside a simple sleeve, sold cheaply and worn as a habit. This one is built the other way about. The head that turns carries a coloured stone set within mother of pearl cut as a doughnut, with round brilliant diamonds set into the frame. Taking a mechanism usually treated as a novelty and making it properly is the whole idea.

A table of 16 by 16 millimetres, in 14-karat gold — white, rose or yellow, according to the stone.

Four stones, each in its own metal: malachite in yellow gold, garnet in rose, blue topaz and amethyst in white.

From Orbital Jewels, within Kinetic.

Please enquire for certification and viewing.