Anemone Coronaria – Ruby Ring

Anemone coronaria — the poppy anemone — is a flower that arranges itself freely. The petals are unequal, they sit at different depths, and the heart of the bloom rarely falls where the eye anticipates. The ring is built in the same spirit.

Rubies of 4.43 carats, cut as octagons, ovals and pears, are set across a face of 22 by 22 millimetres at varying heights, each stone on its own level, so the surface rises and falls as a flower does.

The colour is the other pleasure. These rubies run from deep red through to strong pink, and Eve has set them adjacent rather than graded — a pink oval beside a red pear beside a pink-purple round. The flower behaves exactly so: a single species blooming in reds, purples and pinks, often side by side in the same ground. A perfectly matched parcel would have been the easy choice, and the flower would have gone out of it.

Two carved mother of pearl crescents curl through the setting, each bezelled, each cradling a ruby within its hook. Cool and opaque, they do what the pale petals do behind a saturated bloom: give the reds something to rest against, so the depth of the colour tells.

Three pearls of 3 millimetres sit proud at the outer edge, and small diamonds are bezelled into the intervals between stones, holding the composition close.

In white gold, used lightly. Across a face of this size, warm metal would have introduced a fourth colour to a ring already balancing red, pink and cream.

Please enquire for certification and viewing.